Saturday, December 31, 2011

Thank You, people I used this year



So it’s a good time for Porkosity to take a moment to thank some of the amazing people who have made this production possible. Because it really is like a little theatre production, complete with a rotating cast and a seamless back-of-house team.

First, thanks to the wonderful friends from A-Squad, B-Squad and even those stragglers in C-Squad. Time and again, they have made me seem like a more charismatic host by being such funny, well-dressed, smart, informed and all around fun people.

In addition to my horrible wife, the always dependable Emma Segal, countless dinners were infused with a joyful spirit thanks to the company of Beth Palmer, Eric Vellend, Jesse Brown, Laura Adams, Lily Cho, Max Mandel, Mike Miner, Amy Wood, Chris Nuttall-Smith, David Ginsberg, David Zikovitz, Steve Gilbert, Ivor Tossell, Jennifer Yang, Jonathan Goldsbie, Karon Liu, Katie Minsky, Paul Terefenko, Zachary Green, Hannah Sung, Lauren Schreiber, Mark Medley, Sarah-Nicole Prickett, Becca Brown, Hilary Doyle, Denise Balkissoon, Catherine Porter and many more (and hopefully many more to come).


As always, friends and colleagues who ask, “When are you inviting me to one of your dinners?” The answers is, anytime you pitch me a good guest.

Brigitte Noel has been a tremendous help with guest bookings. I call her my intern, but really she is more of a part-time research assistant. She is as thorough as she is punctual.

My roommate, Andrea Yip, continues to be accommodating about having a dinner party in her home once a week.

Jen Agg’s influence is all over my table, starting with the table itself, which she steered me towards. She was instrumental in getting me wine glasses, ordered me a case of long-burning candles and in the new year, will doubtlessly be the reason why I spend twice as much on a set of chairs as I did on the table. But if she has her way, they’re going to be the perfect chairs.

My butcher, Pete Sanagan, has not just made meat-buying a pleasure, but he’s been consistently helpful with cooking tips. Chef Brandon Olsen has saved my bacon multiple times by replying quickly to a last minute text, an inquiry about brining ratios or resting times, despite the fact that he has better things to do. Nick auf der Mauer and Tom Davis have taken time out of their schedules to teach me how to prepare soft-shell crabs and ribs, respectively.

I never know which photographer is going to show up, an hour into a dinner. But whoever it is, they are always a pleasure to work with, integrating themselves into the strange scene, with or without lights. Back at the office, photo assignment editors have been nothing but gracious about last minute photo requests and details. Though it seems that every time I call to say, “I screwed up, can you send a photographer?” it’s Canice Leung on the other end being nice about it.

And while the realities of the newspaper business mean that there is less time for everything and the editing duties shift every few weeks, there is always someone back at the Star, editors such as Kate Robertson, Sarah Murdoch, Erica Tustin, Garnet Fraser, Deborah Dundas, who, with their better understanding of the world and the English language, prevent me from sounding like an idiot. [Boy, they would have split that sentence in three.] All too briefly, I got to work closely with Jennifer Bill. She has gone to a place that dare not be named.


I never know whether to refer to Christine Loureiro as my boss, my editor or my friend. She’s the deputy editor of the Living and Entertainment section. I wouldn’t attempt to describe what her duties are, but trust me when I say they are legion. Most of our conversations take place around 9 p.m. Whatever I did to earn a colleague who, after a 12-hour workday, will call me from home to work out a story, I’m supremely fortunate. She deserves more than being called Chrissy, or Lou, or Lou-Lou, or Chrissy-Lou. I guess she’s my Captain.

Undoubtedly there are people or animals (Hank!) I am forgetting to thank. But you get the picture. This is a team effort and I want everyone to know how much I appreciate their contributions.


Oh, and god. I couldn’t have hosted so many dinners without the my faith in Thoth, Lord of Divine Words, Thrice Great, father of Ra and Khepri, Scribe of Ma’at. I’m a little embarrassed that I didn’t thank him first.

Friday, December 30, 2011

#RIDE Tweeters: The Brock Antons of Drunk Driving


A week ago, if you’d told me that there was more than one answer to the question, “Should you tweet RIDE locations?” I’d have thought you were joking.

I wouldn’t have imagined that there were people out there who wanted to help others drive drunk. But after a lovely Christmas Eve dinner, when my tipsy guests all got into cabs to get home safely, I noticed, via police officer Tim Burrows, that there were Torontonians tweeting the location of RIDE (Reduce Impaired Driving Everywhere) checks. It seemed ghastly.

I may not agree with everything that the Toronto Police do, but the RIDE program is not an abuse of civil rights or a cash grab for overtime hours. It is an attempt to diminish the dangers of motorists having the flesh torn from their bodies, their heads lopped off, spines broken, lungs punctured or other gruesome outcomes, because some of them are drunk.

Some who have been tweeting RIDE locations, or defending the practice (or their friends) have done so under the guise of helping people avoid traffic slowdowns. I respect a good bit of spin and so I tip my hat to this argument. I also would not like being stopped in my car, made to wait, answer police questions or take a sobriety test. If someone told me how to avoid that, I would appreciate it.

The problem with this explanation is that it’s not true. One of the gentlemen from Christmas Eve used the hashtag #avoidifhammered. Another explained in his bio that he likes “to get really blackout drunk and do stupid shit.”

These boyscouts were not trying to help me save time. They were trying to help me drive drunk. Attempts to spin their behavior are just that, spin.

So I tweeted their names.

Tuesday, December 20, 2011

ATE: The N'Duja Cometh


This is the truth of my everyday eating, a return from the market with broccoli, rapini and brussels sprouts to blanche.


Meanwhile, chicken thighs braise away in a guajillo tomato sauce.


I ended up reducing this down a lot more, for a variation on tinga.


It was for tacos. But the leftovers went all over the joint. With rapini ...


... with pasta scraps ...


Sunday, December 18, 2011

FED #109: The Inventionator & The Buildificationator (Justin Nadeau & James Davis)


Status: FED
· Pappa al pomodoro
· Zucchini & Yogurt
· Kale + Arugula + Yuzu Dressing + Pecorino
· Ptitm & Cheese
· Brigitte is bringing cookies


Guest #: Justin Nadeau
Contributed: sunflower sprouts (grown in a file cabinet), eggs (from backyard chickens of a friend of a friend)
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #: James Davis
Occupation: “School Food Innovations Educator” or Buildificationator
Contributed: Jamaican dessert thing with coconut, ginger, hemp seeds
Sent thank-you: see above

Guest #: Dawn Laing
Occupation: Environmental Biologist
Contributed: Mike Weir 2009 Underdog, egg tray
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #: Brigitte Noel
Occupation: journalist
Contributed: a selection of cookies from Soma (even though I specifically asked only for almond cookies from Soma)
Sent thank-you: Card in the mail



THE BUILDIFICATIONATOR & THE INVENTIONATOR

DAVIS
Did you dub me as the ‘buildificationator?’

NOEL
Yes, and the ‘inventionator’.

DAVIS
I guess we’re still sort of workshopping it. They think that buildologist is a better fit …

LAING
Ooh, I like that too.

DAVIS
I like ‘buildificationator’. Because we also have ‘funologists’, so a little to much ‘ologists’ for me.

NADEAU
I think it started with ‘inventionator’ because one of our staff has a 12-year –old daughter who was like, ‘Was that built by the inventionator?’ She coined this term. I think it’s flattering. I hate being called an engineer.

LAING
What’s your title?

NADEAU
School food, gardens and environmental education coordinator.

LAING
Oh wow.

NADEAU
Yeah, it’s got a real ring to it.

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

The Hummer Gentleman


While taking photos of the shiny Humvee illegally squatting on the bike lane in front of Sam James Coffee Bar, a gentleman comes out to have words with me. He is wearing a spotless, white Canada Goose jacket and speaks with a charming English accent.

HUMMER GENTLEMAN
Ayo, what you takin’ pictures for?

Monday, December 12, 2011

HOW TO BE A CHRISTMAS PARTY GUEST


Whether meeting a spouse’s horrible family or visiting some horrible country, a good guest is always on their best behaviour. Micro or macro, a guest is a guest, never revealing the contempt hidden behind a thin veil of civility.

In December, guesting and hosting reaches critical mass. Between personal and professional commitments, even the most extroverted of us can yearn for that bleak, commitment-free stretch of winter between New Year’s Eve and Hitler’s birthday.

Here are some tips for not merely surviving, but triumphing over, the Christmas party gauntlet.

1. HONOUR YOUR COMMITMENTS
If you said you’d be somewhere, be there. “I had too much fun at another party last night,” is a terrible, insulting excuse for being a no-show at tonight’s jam.

2. ARRIVE LATE, LEAVE EARLY
Easier said than done. A common party timeline (required for Facebook invitations) is 8 p.m. until 2 a.m. Cheeky hosts will list the end time as 5 p.m. the next day. But really, unless this is an opium den staff party, who are we kidding? If you show up at 9:30, the crowd will be just thin enough that you’ll get some attention/recognition from the host. Leave by 11. In those 90 minutes, during which you could have watched any Woody Allen movie, you’ve talked to all your pals. And you don’t need to talk to new people because they are the worst.


A little music to put you in the mood.

3. BRING A GIFT
The next time it seems too laborious to schlep wine to a dinner party, remember that in Japan, the cycle of gift-giving is so severe that if you return from a trip to Hokkaido without fake-milk flavoured cookies for your co-workers, you will never get a promotion.

You needn’t spend too much. A gift for the host can be anything — wine, flowers, fruit, a book, a card, a friendship bracelet, unscented candles, herbs from your garden, a jar of Nutella (hint hint), guajillo chilies — but you can’t show up empty handed. Because you are an adult.


4. DON’T BE A DRUNK
Tipsy people are hilarious. Drunk people are sad accidents waiting to happen. The act of drinking confounds attempts to plan ahead and be in control. But try to remember what your eighth-grade health teacher taught you about the difference between three, four and five alcoholic beverages. If it’s a two-party night, pace yourself. You are not Wolverine. Your healing factor will not absorb the booze. If you are breaking things, if people are avoiding eye contact with you, if you have cause to question, “Am I wasted?” you are. Leave.

BONUS POINT: If you are under 25, no one takes you seriously yet. You can show up hammered.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

ATE: Tartare Burger & Reshelving the Bourbon


Porked up. A thank-you gift from Fed guest Christopher St. Onge.


Sort of from the book. Lentils with roasted beets, pickled onions, oregano and gentile sausage.


Foolishly ordered a whole tenderloin for tartare.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

The Official 2011 Cornelius Von Mintzberg Christmas Gift Guide


DON’T BUY ANYTHING.

FED #108: The Adam Gopnik Part B: The Classism of Food Snobbery


photo by Dave Cooper
Guest #109.1: Adam Gopnik
Occupation: staff writer, New Yorker, author of really smart books, most recently The Table Comes First, lecturer, big brain in regular sized body
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.2: Matt Galloway
Occupation: host, CBC’s Metro Morning
Contributed: lemon curd pie (seriously delicious), Josef Chromy 2009 Pinot Noir
Sent thank-you: email
Guest #109.3: Mark Medley
Contributed: E. Guigal 2007 Cotes Du Rhone, Fuller’s 2011 Vintage Ale
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.4: Christine Loureiro
Contributed: Chambolle-Musigny 2007 Burgundy
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.5: Sheila Kay
Occupation: deputy director of publicity, Random House
Contributed: Toasted Head 2010 Chardonnay, Louis Jadot 2010 Beaujolais
Sent thank-you: email




MEATLITISM

MEDLEY

So, I was wondering, as I read the book, have you gotten any backlash yet for your stance on meat eating?

GOPNIK

I’ve been so busy promoting it. I hate that word.

MEDLEY

It’s fair.

GOPNIK

But, whatever it is you do when you do these things, that I haven’t really been in place long enough to find out what people hate. But I suspect that there probably will be. But, as I thought I made plain in the book, I take the arguments for ethical vegetarianism very seriously. If my kids came to me and said, ‘Dad, we’ve decided that we don’t want to eat any more meat, I’d go along with that fine. But what I don’t think makes a lot of sense is talking about the thing in the context of some absolute theory of — sorry, I’m talked out a bit and I’m going to put this badly — of right and wrong. In other words, you can make just as strong a case that being a carnivore is part of the natural cycle of food as not being a carnivore. Now, the counterargument is always that feeding animals takes an enormous amount of the agriculture of the planet to do. And that’s true. But it’s also a choice. That’s always going to be true. You’re always going to be making irrational choices about how you use the abundance of the planet to feed yourself. You can’t attempt to rationalize that because it doesn’t lend itself to rationalization.

FED #108: The Adam Gopnik Part A: Gladwell & The Inner Monologue


Status: FED
· Rabbit Rillettes + Beef Tartare + Bread + Cornichons
· Lamb & Parsnip
· Cassoulet
· Coffee at the end of the meal (Well, I offered because I know he likes it. But I didn’t have decaf)
· Lemon-lime cream tart (a la Matt Galloway)


Rillettes Step 1: Use great-grandfather Herschel's cleaver to separate rabbit.

Guest #109.1: Adam Gopnik
Occupation: staff writer, New Yorker, author of really smart books, most recently The Table Comes First, lecturer, big brain in regular sized body
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.2: Matt Galloway
Occupation: host, CBC’s Metro Morning
Contributed: lemon curd pie (seriously delicious), Josef Chromy 2009 Pinot Noir
Sent thank-you: email
Guest #109.3: Mark Medley
Contributed: E. Guigal 2007 Cotes Du Rhone, Fuller’s 2011 Vintage Ale
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.4: Christine Loureiro
Contributed: Chambolle-Musigny 2007 Burgundy
Sent thank-you: email

Guest #109.5: Sheila Kay
Occupation: deputy director of publicity, Random House
Contributed: Toasted Head 2010 Chardonnay, Louis Jadot 2010 Beaujolais
Sent thank-you: email

Rillettes Step 2: Rabbits like baths.


2. THE INTERNAL MONOLOGUE

MEDLEY
I imagine that blackmail is a dying art. We live our life online so much now. I can’t think of anything that isn’t already out there.

GALLOWAY
No, people still have lots of secrets. There is a lot of information that people still hold close. And they try really hard to keep it close, even if they live a very public life. Everybody draws that line.

MINTZ
You talk to people all the time, and you see them take that little pause, before they answer …

GALLOWAY
You can tell how much people are going to give. And you can tell, even if you work hard, what people are still holding back. There’s a reserve. It’s important. I mean, I have a reserve. You have a reserve.

MINTZ
I’m an open book. Except that hobo that I killed.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

The Gastronomic Agriculture of Société-Orignal


The producers of some very unusual Quebec food products came to my home for a tasting. The story ran in print, but never ended up on the Star’s website. So here it is.

GASTRONOMIC AGRICULTURE

When you run a restaurant, people try to sell you things all day long.

“There are suppliers that come in the door constantly,” says Rob Gentile, chef of Buca, adding that it’s usually a waste of time. But a chef friend had suggested he meet with Alex Cruz and Félix Gagné. “When you get a referral from a chef it’s one that you look into.” He was glad he did. “With them, I was like, ‘What else have you got?’”



Sunday, December 4, 2011

ATE: .. then deglaze the pan with Old Milwaukee


There are three types of eggs in the fridge: free range eggs, duck eggs and "alleged" backyard chicken eggs. And I rarely eat eggs.


But I used some for a spaghetti squash carbonara: here they are poached, over the roasted squash with guanciale and jus.